If you want to get good matcha, you have to get ceremonial grade matcha, seems to be the usual advice. It is more of a sign of ignorance than knowledge, unfortunately.
Walk into a traditional matcha producer’s store, have a look at their online offerings, and chances are you will find names that include “shiro” or “mukashi“. Here, you can start learning about chamei (茶銘), the poetic names given to tea by the grandmasters of the tea ceremony.
These are two suffixes that have defined quality for centuries.
The Binary Myth: Culinary vs. Ceremonial
Before we discuss history, we must dismantle a modern lie.
In the West, we are taught that there are two categories of matcha: “Culinary” (for baking) and “Ceremonial” (for drinking). This is a marketing fabrication. In Japan, matcha exists on a vast spectrum.
A respectable producer like Horii Shichimeien or Ippodo does not sell “bad” tea. They sell tea meant for different consistencies. The true distinction is not drinking vs. cooking, but koicha (thick tea) vs. usucha (thin tea).
Mukashi (昔): The Echo of Antiquity
When you see a matcha name ending in -no-mukashi (e.g., Unmon-no-mukashi), you are generally looking at the producer’s highest offerings.
Mukashi literally means “ancient” or “old times.”
In the context of tea, it serves a dual purpose. Historically, it refers to the reverence for the past, specifically the practice of the kuchikiri tea gathering in November. In the Edo period, tea jars were sealed in spring and opened in November. The tea inside, having aged and mellowed, was considered a connection to the harvest of the past.
Today, mukashi almost exclusively designates tea suitable for koicha (thick tea). This is matcha kneaded with very little water into a thick, paint-like syrup. Because the concentration is so high, the tea must be devoid of bitterness and overflowing with umami.
Notable Examples
- Unmon-no-mukashi (Ippodo)
- Seiyu-no-mukashi (Hekisuien)
- Tenju (Marukyu Koyamaen) – yes, that does not have the no-mukashi label, you have to know or read up to learn that it’s Marukyu Koyamaen’s highest grade of tea, i.e. clearly meant to be prepared as koicha.
Shiro (白): The White Foam
Moving down the spectrum—though still squarely within the realm of high-quality tea—we find the suffix -no-shiro (e.g., Horai-no-shiro).
Shiro means “white.” It seems contradictory for a product prized for its brilliant green hue, doesn’t it?
There are competing historical theories for this. Some suggest it references the Song Dynasty method of processing tea where bleached or very pale tea leaves were considered the height of luxury. Others suggest it refers to the white foam that contrasts beautifully with the green liquid when whisked.
In modern nomenclature, shiro almost always designates tea meant for usucha (thin tea). This is the frothy, lighter tea most Westerners are familiar with. A shiro tea will have a brighter, more brisk profile. It retains a touch of astringency (bitterness) that is actually desirable in usucha to provide a refreshing finish.
Notable Examples
- Horai-no-shiro (Ippodo)
- Matsu-no-shiro (used by various tea houses including Kanbayashi Shunsho and Hekisuien, the name references the pine (matsu 松), which is a symbol of longevity, endurance, good fortune)
- Isuzu from Marukyu Koyamaen also belongs with these teas for usucha; as you may start to gather (if you didn’t already know it), Marukyu Koyamaen follows a different convention in naming their teas.
The Practical Application: Don’t Waste the Mukashi
Why does this matter to you, the consumer navigating a shortage?
Because buying the most expensive tin is not always the correct choice. If you are making a matcha latte, using Unmon-no-mukashi is a tragedy. The subtle, oceanic umami and lack of bitterness will vanish into the milk. You will be left with a flat, sweet drink.
For a latte, you actually want the structure of a lower-end shiro, or indeed a high-quality culinary grade, because that slight astringency cuts through the fat of the milk.
Conversely, if you are trying to practice sado and whisk a bowl of Koicha using a cheap “Ceremonial Grade” from a random Instagram brand, you will likely gag. It will be unpalatably bitter.
The supply chain is broken right now. Authentic Japanese matcha is a finite resource. By understanding the names—respecting the difference between the deep, savory Mukashi and the brisk, refreshing Shiro—we show respect to the producers who have guarded these traditions for generations.
Drink well, but more importantly, drink with understanding.